In the Alice B. Toklas cookbook (whose merits we exalt here), there’s a chapter titled Food in the United States in 1934 and 1935. It opens with an amusing anecdote: “When during the summer of 1934 Gertrude Stein could not decide whether she did or did not want to go to the United States, one of the things that troubled her was the question of … Continue reading (french) onion soup.